Attach the fan to the small area around the core of the radiator where there is a metal lip that is approximately 1/4" to 3/8". Mount the fan as high up on the core as possible. Installing the fan: When installing electric cooling fans, it is important to cover as much surface area as possible. _ Polished (Best option for polished aluminum radiators)īuild Requests : Any other information necessary for ordering. _X_ Painted Black (Looks great on copper/brass radiators) _ Satin (Best for satin finish aluminum radiators) Hole Location/Fan Location (Usually center, evenly spaced ) Width (fin area only): Leave blank if ordering with a radiator. Height (fin area only): Leave blank if ordering with a radiator. Total Thickness wo/Fan(s) 1/2" (No fan(s) included) Just supply us with all of the dimensions listed below and we'll take care of the rest. Need the mounting tabs in a special location? No problem. Don't need a fan but need a hole for your supplied fan? No problem. The shrouds are available with or without a fan. Our aluminum shrouds have a standard depth of 1/2" without the fan so they don’t rob you of precious engine space. Why not utilize the WHOLE core? Let us make you an aluminum shroud that covers the entire core giving you the maximum temperature drop. The photos and captions show the simple installation and the following information from Cool Craft illustrates what specifications and measurements were needed to complete this installation. However, it’s better to supply the simple measurements they need so they can cut the hole and attach the fan mounts. The shroud can be ordered with the hole at any location or supplied without a hole and you can cut it out once you determine where to locate the fan. The 1/2-inch thick shroud clears easily but the 16-inch diameter fan had to be moved to the top of the shroud for clearance. I only have 2-5/8-inches between the core and the shaft on the pump. The Buick Nailhead sits low in the frame and clearance between the thick radiator core and the water pump make the use of the stock fan impractical. My ’32 Ford hi-boy roadster proved to be the perfect application for this unit. Tabs on the side of the shroud attach to the flanges on the radiator side plates with sheet metal screws. It’s made up of a 1/2-inch thick formed-aluminum shroud and one or multiple electric thin-line fans. Fan manufacturers have continued to reduce the thickness of the fans and now there is a shroud from Cool Craft that when combined with the fan only measures 2-5/8-inches thick. They are thin and can be located anywhere on the face of the core, though near the top is recommended because in top-to-bottom flow radiators hot coolant is returning there from the engine.Ī shroud makes these much more effective but most of the shrouds have moved the fan back from the core too far. Electric powered fans offer the best alternative. This makes the traditional mechanical fan/shroud combo impractical. In many applications the engine sits too low in the frame and has limited clearance at the front of the engine. A shroud covering the entire core area and funneling the airflow out the rear opening makes this even more efficient. A multi-bladed fan attached to the water pump hub, driven by the engine, offers the most efficient means of doing this. To increase airflow at slower speeds a fan is used to draw air through the radiator. However, at idle or in stop-and-go traffic not enough air flows across the tubes and fins to keep the engine cool. This additional coolant capacity and heat transfer area does the job at highway speeds. Increased cooling capacity cannot be attained by making the radiator core bigger so the core has to be made thicker by adding more rows of tubes. Grille areas are narrow and the engine bays are small. Product supplied by Cool Craft Big engines in early hot rods create unique cooling problems. Photos and story by Jim Clark, the Hot Rod M.D.
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